Mixer switch for water supply modes for shower cabins

Operation of a push-button vertical bath-shower switch in wall-mounted single-lever faucets.

The most important part of bathtub faucets is the bath-shower switch. There are several types of faucets with push-button bath-shower switches. One of the common types of switches today is the piston or push-button version of the shower-spout switch.

Switch button

has a spring rod The switch has a spring-loaded rod; when closed, it locks the hole in the mixer body, which leads to the shower hose and allows water to enter the spout.

Diagram of a push-button vertical bath-shower switch

for a wall-mounted single-lever mixer is shown in Fig. 4.

Diagram of a push-button vertical shower-spout switch for a single-lever mixer.

6- union nut; 9- mixer body; 10- spout; 11- flexible shower hose; 15- shower-spout switch button; 16- cap (cover) of the button; 17- cover fastening screw; 18- rod spring; 19- switch rod; 20- valve stem; 21- oil seal bushing; 22- stuffing box seal; 23- switch housing; 24-push-button switch adapter; 25- sealing rubber ring of the switch housing; 26- sealing rubber ring of the adapter; 27- rubber valve rings; 28- plastic spout stabilizer; 29 - adapter hole for spout.

To turn on the water supply to the shower, you need to lift the button, while the rod rises and opens the hole to the shower hose. The switch remains in this position as long as the flow of water presses on the valve.

How to choose the right faucet for the bathroom?

Before choosing a faucet for the bathroom, you need to decide on its installation option and installation location. If you are the happy owner of a large combined bathroom and the plumbing elements are located at a large distance from each other, then we recommend that you pay attention to a set of bathroom faucets that are made in the same style. You can see an example of such sets by looking at the pictures below. Each of the faucets is designed to be installed specifically on a bathtub, sink or wall.

If you have a small bathroom where the washbasin and bathtub are located next to each other, then in such cases universal-type bathroom water taps are used. These cranes have:

• a long spout that allows you to direct the flow of water into the sink or bathtub;
• installed directly on the wall between the plumbing elements;
• has the ability to connect a long hose with a shower head.

Important! This type of faucet requires hidden installation of plumbing with pipes walled up in the wall or special niches. The product is attached directly to the pipes using special adapters called eccentrics.

If the plumbing elements are installed at a large distance from each other and it is not possible to use a bath faucet on both elements, then it is better to use built-in faucets. This type of product is designed to be installed directly on plumbing fixtures. Naturally, for this you need to have a bathtub and sink, which are equipped with special holes for mounting such models. Such mortise-type bathroom faucets allow you to avoid ripping apart walls to install water lines, since they can be hidden in niches under the bathtub or in the washbasin counter.

If it leaks, how to prevent water leakage

The most common leak locations are:

• under the gander;
• under the lever mixer handle;
• under the valve of a two-valve mixer;
• from the shower hose connection points.

Water may leak under the fixing nut due to wear on the rubber gasket.

The problem can be corrected by replacing the worn ring with a new one - made of paronite, with a diameter of ¾ inches. In this case, the thread of the gander should be sealed with FUM tape. A leak in a lever mixer occurs due to a cartridge failure. This defect can be eliminated by replacing it with a new element.

From the author:

Hello, dear readers! When the water switch from the faucet to the shower suddenly breaks in the bathroom, this is a reason for immediate action. After all, the lack of opportunity to wash properly is definitely not something to be happy about.

What to do if calling a plumber on the same day is impossible for some reason? Fortunately, it is quite possible for you to repair your shower diverter in . This does not require a lot of experience, just some knowledge. This is what we want to offer you in our article today.

But before we find out how to repair the equipment that is so necessary for each of us, let's understand the existing types of switches. After all, it depends on the type of product how the repair will be carried out.

Single valve

Such valve taps have a simple design and are highly reliable. Single-valve models are used for products with hot or cold water only. In a body made of brass or copper there is a locking device, which looks like a crane axle box:

• ceramic;
• worm-like

In the worm version, the valve is driven by a rod, which presses a leather or rubber gasket onto a special “seat”. Most often, such a faucet breaks due to wear of the gasket. To eliminate it, just replace it with a new one.

The ceramic crane box has two plates with clearance. One is fixed motionless, the second is rotated using a valve. The gaps in them, when they coincide, facilitate the flow of water into the spout. These devices break very rarely because ceramics are highly wear-resistant.

It happens that the spout of such a faucet, together with the body, is cast as a monolithic device, then it becomes motionless. However, valve taps with a spout that looks like a tube are more popular. It is fixed into the structure’s body in a vertical position and is held in special holes using two plastic hinge rings. Devices made of steel and brass are available for sale. Brass has better corrosion resistance.

How to disassemble a shower ball switch

Ball shut-off switches are most often installed in two-valve faucets. A special feature of such devices is that the water pressure and its temperature are regulated by a ball installed in the switch. It is connected to the stem and valves of the faucet. When the handles are rotated, the ball changes its position and sets the required jet pressure, and also switches the shower spout mode.

Step-by-step instructions on how to disassemble the shower ball switch (gander - watering can):

When you assemble the mixer and switch to their original position, it is recommended to screw FUM tape onto all threaded connections, and also replace gaskets and rings. A preventive inspection should be carried out once every six months, this will prevent wear of the seals.

Bathtub and shower faucets are equipped with a bath-shower switch that switches the water flow between the spout and the shower. The problem is that this structural element often fails and the water may not be distributed correctly in the desired directions.

If you understand all the intricacies of the bath-shower switch, you can troubleshoot using the instructions. The article describes the main types of switches, possible malfunctions and how to repair them.

How to choose a bathroom faucet

We have already become familiar with the operating principle of the main types of water taps, so we can proceed directly to the purchase. The same model may not be suitable for the bathroom and kitchen, since there are certain criteria for comfortable use in certain conditions.

The video shows the structure of the mixer tap:

For a bathroom equipped with a shower hose, it is necessary to select special faucet models in which the flow switching and temperature indicators also apply to the shower system. The basic principle of operation of such valves will be either valve or ball; only the main manufacturers, material and design are distinguished. By the way, the cost may depend even more on the appearance than on the quality of the equipment itself.

The video explains how to choose the right water taps:

For a washbasin, a regular faucet of any design will be sufficient. You will not use these appliances as intensively as, for example, a kitchen faucet, so the power and type will not be as important. The length of the spout should correspond to the size of the washbasin, so that there is no further construction “blunder” when water gets directly onto the floor, bypassing a sink that is too narrow.

Estimated cost of some types of bathroom faucets:

The external design of each model is attractive in its own way, so choosing the right one will not be difficult. The cost of each type may vary depending on the region and supply. The goods are imported, so currency fluctuations should also be taken into account.

The photo shows types of water taps:

Possible faults

If water flows synchronously in the two positions “shower” and “spout”, then the reason is that the spool gaskets have worn out and no longer perform their functions.

It is necessary to replace them with new ones:

• shut off the water supply;
• disconnect the hose;
• disconnect the gooseneck;
• unscrew the adapter;
• remove the valve handle;
• remove the spool;
• remove old rubber rings;
• new rings should be wetted with plain water;
• install the rings in their place;
• assemble the faucet valve.

If water leaks when using a push-button switch, the reason may also be the unsuitability of the rubber rings.

To replace rubber rings, you need:

• shut off the water supply;
• unscrew the spout;
• disconnect the adapter using a hex key;
• remove the cap;
• get the screw
• remove the button;
• remove the valve;
• remove old rings from valve
• install new rings;
• assemble the switch.

If a push-button switch is installed in the bathroom and its button does not return to its original position when the water is turned off or when the faucet mode is switched, then the breakdown most likely occurred due to a weak or broken spring.

The process of installing or replacing a spring:

• turn off the water;
• unscrew the spout and hose;
• disconnect the adapter from the switch using an open-end wrench;
• remove the cap of the product;
• remove the screw
• unscrew the button;
• pull out the rod along with the spring;
• replace the broken spring;
• assemble the switch.

If you hear turbulent noises when you open the faucet, the cause is the wear of the rubber gasket. You need to unscrew the head and cut off the worn edge from the gasket.

If water flows continuously from the tap, the reason may be that the brass valve has become unusable or foreign small particles have clogged the gap between the valve and the gasket. It is necessary to replace the valve or clean the contamination inside the mixer.

If no water comes out when you open the tap, the reason may be that the rubber gasket has dried out. First, you can try a simple method - open the tap and hit it with a wooden object. Otherwise, it is necessary to shut off the access to water, remove the valve head and slightly tug or turn over the gasket itself.

If it is not possible to open the valve by turning it, then the reason is that the thread of the rod has become unusable. It is necessary to replace the rod or wind the wire if the thread is not completely worn out.

Repair of a water tap due to valve malfunctions

During prolonged use of a water tap, the walls of the tap socket may become chipped. If most of the circumference is damaged, the valve cannot be repaired, since in such a seat the gasket is not centered, fidgeting in the seat, as a result of which it begins.

In such cases, the valve is purchased in a store or turned on a lathe from brass. When recessing the valve yourself, it is necessary to provide for the presence of a so-called undercut - the diameter of the base of the socket should be 1-1.5 mm greater than the diameter of the edge of the socket, which allows the gasket to be securely held without using a screw.

You can also change the valve by removing it from an old faucet head, which may be in stock from a previous repair.

When unscrewing the head, the valve may remain in the valve seat. To remove it, use a wire hook or tweezers.

Advice! You should not rivet the hole and hammer the shank into it, since the valve is intentionally fixed in the hole motionless to ensure even wear of the gasket.

To avoid the valve falling out of the spindle, it is necessary to wind the shank with linen winding and insert it into the spindle with force. Linen threads will wear out over time and come out with water.

Replacing the switching mechanism is heartbreaking

Ball switches are the most reliable, but, unfortunately, they cannot be repaired, so if you have a mixer with just such a switching mechanism, and it breaks, then you will have to buy a new one.

For cartridge, axle box and eccentric switches, the repair work will be as follows:

1. Remove the decorative plug on the shift knob. In some faucets, you need to use a wallpaper knife to remove the plug and use a screwdriver to unscrew the fixing screw that covered it. In our case, it itself is such a screw. We turn it away.

2. Remove the handle.

3. Under the handle there is either axle box mechanism or a nut securing the mechanism (cartridge or eccentric). Turn it away.

4. Take out the mechanism. The axle box or cartridge is removed entirely. With eccentric ones, only one part will be removed - the eccentric itself.

5. To completely dismantle the eccentric switch, it is necessary to remove its internal part. To do this, unscrew the spout nut by hand.

6. Remove the spout downwards.

7. Under the nut you will find a removable part of the housing. It will have to be turned away. This is very difficult to do. Wrap this part with a cloth so as not to damage the chrome plating during dismantling, and use a gas (not adjustable) wrench to unscrew this part using the body itself.

8. If you manage to do this, the inner part of the mechanism can be easily removed from the case. Overall it will look something like this:

On the right is the eccentric part, which turns away first, on the left is the inner part. If you cannot remove the inner part, you will have to change the mixer.

9. After dismantling, using the samples received, we buy the necessary spare parts in the store and assemble the mixer in the reverse order of the work described.

To replace a separate switch unit, it must be completely disconnected from the mixer.

1. Unscrew the shower hose by hand.

2. Unscrew the top nut securing the mechanism to the mixer body.

3. Remove the mechanism with the spout.

4. Unscrew the spout nut.

5. As a result, we get a switching mechanism.

6. We buy a new mechanism in the store and install it on the mixer.

Repair of push-button shower-spout switch in wall-mounted single-lever faucets.

Upon examination

push-button switch, check the stability of its operation:

1. it should not spontaneously switch from the shower screen to the spout;
2. when the water supply switch handle to the mixer is closed, the button should switch freely -

• on the shower
  - when the button is fixed in the
  “up”
  ;
• on the spout
  - when the button is fixed in the
  “down”
  .

Bath-shower switches, which can be push-button, cork or spool-type, are repaired depending on their design features.

In any case, turn off the water supply to the faucet before carrying out repairs.

3.1. Method for disassembling the switch button for repair.

Disassembly method for repairing or replacing the switch button

A single-lever bath-shower mixer is shown in Fig. 5.

Note: *— A hexagonal metal rod with a distance between opposite edges of 12...13 mm is carefully inserted into the adapter hole (Fig. 6, item 29). The hexagonal square (Fig. 5) is held and the adapter is unscrewed (Fig. 6, item 24)

The valve body (Fig. 6, pos. 23) without a button (Fig. 6, pos. 16) is pushed out of the base of the mixer body (Fig. 5, pos. 4)

Hexagonal square

(Fig. 5) hold and unscrew
the adapter
(Fig. 6, pos. 24).
The valve body (Fig. 6, pos. 23) without the button
(Fig. 6, pos. 16) is pushed out of the base
of the mixer body
(Fig. 5, pos. 4).

These L-shaped hex keys are usually used when working with power tools.

During repairs, the push-button switch is disassembled in the following sequence:

1. first remove the flexible hose
   (Fig. 4, item 11) with
   the union nut
   (Fig. 4, item 6) under the button;
2. then remove the decorative cap of the button
   (Fig. 4, pos. 16), prying it off with a screwdriver blade, and unscrew
   the screw
   (Fig. 4, pos. 17).
3. remove the button
   (Fig. 4, item 15);
4. then remove the rod
   (Fig. 4, pos. 19) together
   with the valve
   (Fig. 4, pos. 20), if the rod is open, or the entire
   body of the button
   (Fig. 6, pos. 23), if the button is with a closed rod. Moreover, a button with a closed rod is more durable because the rod spring is closed from contact with water;
5. worn valve rings
   (Fig. 6 pos. 20, pos. 25 and pos. 26) in the buttons are replaced with new ones;
6. the closed button (if it cannot be disassembled) is replaced with a similar one completely.

Options for shower-spout push-button switches

for wall-mounted single-lever mixers are shown in Fig. 6.

Options for push-button shower-spout switches for wall-mounted single-lever faucets

16- cap with lid or button; 17- screw; 18- rod spring; 19- switch rod; 20- valve stem; 21- oil seal bushing; 22- stuffing box seal; 23- switch housing; 24-push-button switch adapter; 25- sealing rubber ring of the switch housing; 26- sealing rubber ring of the adapter; 27- rubber valve rings; 28- plastic spout stabilizer; 29 - adapter hole for spout.

Before assembling the switch, inspect the sealing surfaces on the open-stem button, clean and flush them. Spring

(Fig.6 pos.18) coat with thick lubricant.

Repair of a water tap due to spindle problems

How to repair a water tap if a powerful stream of water flows from it, but when you turn it on, the pressure does not stop:

1. Turn off the water in the apartment and turn off the tap head. This usually occurs when a certain number of the final threads of the external thread of the spindle on the flywheel side wear out.
2. Since the outer part of the spindle still has a usable thread section, you can continue to use the part by installing a thick spacer (at least 6 mm thick) in the socket. Such a gasket is difficult to find; for this reason, washers with a total thickness of 1.5-3 mm can be added to a regular gasket. The inner and outer diameters of the washers should be selected in accordance with the diameter of the valve shank and seat.
3. An alternative solution to the problem is to change the spindle. In this case, remove the flywheel cover, unscrew the screw, remove the flywheel and slightly turn out the stuffing box. The entire spindle is screwed in carefully so that the threads of the spindle coincide with the threads of the head body. It is also possible to completely replace the head.

Advantages and disadvantages

For the convenience of readers, we will summarize them in a general table.

Washbasin mixers

Here you need to take into account the width and depth of the sink, choosing a faucet so that water does not splash outside. This depends on the height of the product, as well as the size and shape of the spout.

It is also important how the device is attached to the sink. It is better if this is done using a nut that needs to be screwed onto the lower part of the housing. Fastening with studs (one or two) is less reliable. Depending on the method of switching water, products can be either valve or lever. Read more about each of these types of sink faucets below.

Valve axle-type faucets for washbasins

In this faucet, by rotating the handles located on the sides of the tap, you can change the pressure of hot or cold water, achieving the desired temperature. These models are also called crane-axleboxes, since it is the crane-axleboxes that serve here as locking elements.

Crane axle boxes can be:

1. A worm-type axle box is a kind of plug. A rod with a rubber gasket at the end shuts off the water (either completely or partially). When turning on a faucet with such a mechanism, you need to make several turns and apply force at the end. By the way, imported products have a gentler effect on gaskets than domestic ones: in them, the movement of the rod is translational, not rotational.

2. Crane axle box with rotating ceramic plates in which holes are cut. When the holes match, water flows; when they don’t match, it stops flowing. The faucet with ceramics inside can be completely turned only half a turn. Therefore, it has a second name - semi-revolving.

Let us note the advantages and disadvantages of axle-box mixers.

+ Pros:

• The cast body is strong and reliable, it does not have a large number of moving elements.
• The interchangeability of parts is high, and repairs are not difficult.
• Quite low price (lower than single-lever products).

- Minuses:

• Crane axle boxes are too varied - you can make a mistake and buy the wrong part that you need. And sometimes you can’t find it on sale.
• You need to turn the taps with both hands - it takes a long time. And it’s inconvenient if your hands are not very clean.
• A lot of water is consumed - this is important for a thrifty owner.

Single lever basin mixers

Single-lever (or single-lever) faucets have only one lever handle instead of two valves. It is capable of rotating in two planes, providing the necessary heating and water pressure.

The switching mechanism can be:

1. Ball - inside there is a hollow ball with holes.

2. Cartridge-type, inside it there are rotary disks made of ceramics.

Note that tightly fitting parts inside the body react painfully to foreign inclusions in the water. Because of this, the mixer may fail - even an accidentally trapped grain of sand can damage the discs. To prevent this from happening, filters are installed. The body of a single-lever mixer can be rotary or cast.

Features of the rotary housing

In this case, after fixing the device on the sink, its spout can be rotated. This can be quite convenient. For example, when you need to direct the faucet not to the sink, but to the bathtub. And it makes cleaning the sink easier.

+ Pros:

• Ease of use (the lever can be pressed in one motion) and quick adjustment.
• And the surface of the mixer gets dirty to a minimum. If your hands are dirty, you can use the back of your hand or your elbow.
• Longer (about twice as long) service life than a crane axle box. It is about ten years. The prices of these parts are at the same level, but when repairing, you will need one cartridge, and two crane axle boxes.

- Minuses:

• The movable body cannot show off special strength and can easily break.
• If the gasket that separates the inner part from the rotary part wears out, then the faucet must be completely replaced. This part is extremely difficult to find.
• Sensitivity to contaminants in water.

Features of die-cast housing

The fewer moving parts, the less often the finished product breaks. This is an axiom, so a strong one-piece body will certainly outlast a rotary one. The only part that can be changed is the rigidly fixed spout. However, this design allows the shift knob to be placed only on top. And this is not very convenient.

+ Pros:

• Long-lasting housing with easily replaceable elements.
• All the advantages of single-lever products described above.

- Minuses:

Cast faucets are taller, so water often splashes out of them. The side handle is not very convenient. As with all cartridge products, sensitivity to foreign particles in water.

Problems and solutions

Now let's take a more detailed look at the typical breakdowns of each mechanism and how they can be fixed with your own hands at home.

Suberic

As we remember, there are two typical problems:

1. High switching force
   . The cause is most often an overtightened union nut that secures the plug in. It is enough to just loosen it slightly; In addition, a layer of silicone plumbing grease can be applied to the outer surface of the plug removed from the body.

1. Leak along the stem
   . The reason has already been mentioned: uneven wear of rubbing surfaces. A layer of silicone grease will again help correct the situation: it will not only reduce the force required to turn the lever, but will also fill all the microscopic grooves and scratches between the metal parts.

Button

The push-button shower switch also has a few common problems.

1. The valve does not hold water
   . As a rule, the reason is excessively hard water: lime deposits over time cause the valve rubber to lose elasticity and form uneven growths on it and the seat. For a short time, careful cleaning of the valve itself and the seat with Beliz, Domestos or any other lime-removing agent will help; if the rubber has become frankly hard, the valve and rod are completely changed.
2. Leak along the stem.

How to repair the push-button shower switch in the faucet in this case depends on the type of stem seal:

The rubber ring will have to be replaced. A new seal is easy to find as part of a set of gaskets in any plumbing store.

It is enough to refill the stuffing box by tightening the stuffing box with moderate force.

1. The button spontaneously returns to its original position with a small amount of water pressure.
   The problem is related to an excessively tight return spring. It is enough to bite off one or two turns of it - and everything will return to normal.

1. The button does not return to its original position when the water is turned off
   . The reason is that the stem seal is too tight. It is enough to apply a little silicone grease under the rubber ring; in a design with a gland packing, you need to loosen the nut - the gland.

With a keg

1. The faucet does not switch to shower when turning the lever.

The reason may be:

• An eccentric protrusion broken off by excessive force. The symptom is a free rotation of the lever without any visible effect. It can only be treated by replacing the eccentric.
• Lost elasticity or torn gasket on the barrel. A sign of a malfunction is normal lever movement with moderate force; The water is only partially switched. Replacing the gasket and, sometimes, the screw securing it will help.
• Wear of the barrel or guides in the mixer body: the barrel becomes askew and gets stuck in an intermediate position. Symptom: limited lever travel. It is treated by replacing the barrel or, more often, completely replacing the mixer if the guides of its body are worn out.

1. In the event of a leak along the rod, the instructions are the same as for a push-button switch: replace the rubber seal or refill the seal.

Ball

As mentioned above, a ceramic shower or bathtub switch almost never fails due to normal wear and tear. The cause of a breakdown can only be an attempt to turn the lever when the plates are jammed with scale or sand.

If a breakdown does occur, the switch cartridge is completely replaced. The price of this product does not exceed 200 rubles; To replace it, just remove the switch lever and unscrew the nut under it.

The photo shows the switch cartridge.

Watering can

Since we have already touched upon the repair of a bathroom faucet, it would be logical to mention another problem - a malfunction of the shower head, in which water flows from only part of the holes in it.

The reason is sand and lime deposits that clog the holes. It is enough to disassemble the watering can and shake out the sand or wash the holes with the same Belize or Silit (an acidic detergent).

The only problem with this simple repair is disassembling the watering can in the case where there are no fasteners within sight.

Two little tricks can help here:

1. Often the mounting screw can be found under a plastic plug in the middle of the mesh.

1. Sometimes it is possible to disassemble the watering can by fixing the shower-shower switch on it with your hand and turning the mesh counterclockwise.

Main components

All structures with which you can adjust the flow of water in the pipeline, as well as stop it completely, are taps. Current products are mixers - devices with two pipes connected to them, for cold and hot water. Their mechanism makes it possible to regulate the flow of water and its temperature.

Regardless of external differences, the principle of operation and the basic composition of the working elements of all devices are approximately the same. These products have the following components as part of their design:

• a housing with an element for regulating the flow of water placed in it;
• spout, in other words, a spout, through which water flows;
• a valve or lever that controls a mechanism;
• a locking device located in the housing;
• mounting screw;
• pad;
• spindle;
• saddle;
• stuffing box and packing;
• lid.

When you turn the handle of the device, the spindle begins to screw in and the water is shut off. The gasket is pressed tightly against the valve seat, thereby forming an impenetrable barrier to the penetration of coolant.

All mixers have a special part located at the top of the spindle, an oil seal bushing. It prevents water from penetrating upward.

The gland packing helps isolate water.

The material has waterproof properties, due to which water does not leak out of the product.

Often the spout has a divider or aerator, which is a mesh that distributes the water stream more evenly. The main difference between the various types of mixers and taps is the design of the locking device and levers.

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Types of shut-off valves and their common problems

Over the past decades, the design of switches has undergone significant changes. Many of the Soviet types of switches have been replaced with more modern analogues. Let's take a closer look at new and outdated models to understand what you have to deal with. Let's start with the outdated types of shower switches - spool and plug. They have a lever that rotates 90 and 120 degrees. The spool switch is practically not found on the market today, but if you have an old Soviet-style mixer installed, most likely you are dealing with this particular design. A spool is installed inside the switch, which consists of a barrel and an eccentric. The mechanism is driven by the rotation of a rod with a protrusion, offset from the center. The rod controls the movement of the barrel up or down. The external feature of this type of switch is the presence of a plastic or metal handle in the form of a flag. Frequent problems of the spool system are breakage of the eccentric protrusion, failure of the barrel, sensitivity to liming, resulting in rotting of the bolts and destruction of the gaskets.

The plug switch is an improved model of the spool switch. A distinctive feature of the cork system is the presence inside of a brass plug with slots and a switch handle 7–10 cm long. This type of switch ceased to be mass produced in the 90s of the last century. However, there are those who still use a mixer with this type of switch. Common reasons that owners of a plug switch can expect are an overtightened nut, which disrupts the smooth rotation of the handle, or leakage along the rod due to partial wear of the plug.

Modern bath-shower switches are available in push-button/pull, ball and cartridge types. The push-button switch looks like a vent plug with a spring rod that actuates the shut-off valve. When moving down, it turns off the water to the spout (gander) and switches it to the shower. When the rubber valve wears out, the operation of the shut-off system is disrupted, and water flows simultaneously from the spout and shower head. Wear of the exhaust switch fittings also leads to the spontaneous return of the button after pressing with minimal water pressure. In such a situation, we advise you to carefully cut out a couple of turns of the spring with tools and the system will work properly again.

You can easily recognize a ball switch by the presence inside of a brass ball with perpendicular holes, which is clamped between two plates, and the free rotation of the handle 360 ​​degrees. When you turn the switch, the ball takes a certain position. It covers one of the holes, and through the second, water flows into the spout or shower. The intermediate position of the lever completely blocks the access of water. Such a system is considered durable. The only thing she is afraid of is the ingress of sand and lime particles. As a result of adhesion, deposits and rust form on the surface, which prevent smooth shifting, and the lever begins to jam. If you do nothing, the system completely breaks down and fails. Therefore, we advise you to clean the internal fittings of the ball switch from limestone deposits at least once every six months.

The ceramic cartridge is a wear-resistant shut-off valve that is installed in most modern faucets. But like the ball type, it is sensitive to sand particles and scale. Therefore, we recommend installing a coarse water filter in advance. If the switch handle begins to jam, do not make sudden movements. Disassemble and clean the system. Otherwise, you will break one of the ceramic plates or the plastic retainer, and the cartridge will have to be completely replaced.

Construction of a simple water tap

The design of the crane may vary depending on the design features of a particular model, but the principle of their operation, as well as the composition of the main functional elements, remains unchanged.

The crane consists of the following elements:

• mounting screw;
• valve handles;
• stuffing box;
• tap covers;
• stuffing box;
• spindle;
• nuts on the valve body;
• gaskets;
• faucet spout;
• valve seats.

The valve (handle-handwheel) of the faucet is connected to a vertical spindle. The lower part of the spindle, 20 mm long, can move inside the nut. The outer part of the nut is screwed into the valve body. At the end of the spindle there is a spool, which consists of a disk with a gasket.

The gasket is secured using a nut or button. When you turn the faucet handle, the spindle is screwed in, thereby shutting off the faucet: the gasket comes into close contact with the metal protrusion - the faucet seat, and creates a barrier to the flow of water.

To eliminate the possibility of water penetrating up the spindle when the tap is opened, an oil seal bushing is provided, which is located in the upper part of the spindle. Water insulation is created using gland packing, a waterproof material that tightly seals water.

faucet leaks become foreign particles deposited between the valve seat and the sealing gasket, leading to destruction of the gasket. The gasket can also be damaged by screwing the tap in too tightly.

Advice! Due to faulty taps and waste tanks, losses of clean tap water amount to up to 20%. For this reason, it is necessary to deal with leaks that have started in a timely manner.

Fixing leaks and other faucet problems due to a faulty gasket

If the faucet begins to leak due to suspected wear or damage (rupture) of the gasket, take the following measures:

1. the main valve shuts off the water in the apartment (the valve is usually installed in the toilet or under the sink);
2. unscrew the clamping nut using an adjustable wrench or wrench;
3. then unscrew the handle with the spindle and remove the gasket;
4. install a new gasket - for a cold water supply tap - rubber, for a hot water supply - made of leather;
5. the diameter of the gasket should exceed the diameter of the valve seat by about a millimeter, which is quite enough to ensure its tight fit and retention in the seat;
6. The edge of the gasket being installed is cut with scissors at an angle of 45 degrees around the circumference.

In some cases, gasket replacement is not required, but repairs are still necessary. Often you have to deal with the “roar” of pipes. The gasket is also to blame here. To eliminate extraneous sounds, you should know, and again cut the edge of the gasket at an angle of 45 degrees.

If you can’t buy a new gasket in the store, you can start making it yourself.

How to make a gasket for a water tap with your own hands:

• find a small piece of hard sheet rubber (soft rubber is not suitable as a material for padding), for example, use the sole of an old, unusable shoe for this;
• place a piece of rubber on a wooden board and cut it along a pre-marked circle with a well-sharpened knife, or make a notch from a metal tube, the diameter of which coincides with the diameter of the required gasket, sharpen one of its ends with emery, apply the tube to the rubber and cut out the gasket by hitting it with a hammer the blunt end of the tube; You can also make a notch in the tube in the body of the tube for more convenient removal of the cut-out gasket.

Possible faults

If water flows synchronously in the two positions “shower” and “spout”, then the reason is that the spool gaskets have worn out and no longer perform their functions.

It is necessary to replace them with new ones:

• shut off the water supply;
• disconnect the hose;
• disconnect the gooseneck;
• unscrew the adapter;
• remove the valve handle;
• remove the spool;
• remove old rubber rings;
• new rings should be wetted with plain water;
• install the rings in their place;
• assemble the faucet valve.

If water leaks when using a push-button switch, the reason may also be the unsuitability of the rubber rings.

To replace rubber rings, you need:

• shut off the water supply;
• unscrew the spout;
• disconnect the adapter using a hex key;
• remove the cap;
• get the screw
• remove the button;
• remove the valve;
• remove old rings from valve
• install new rings;
• assemble the switch.

If a push-button switch is installed in the bathroom and its button does not return to its original position when the water is turned off or when the faucet mode is switched, then the breakdown most likely occurred due to a weak or broken spring.

The process of installing or replacing a spring:

• turn off the water;
• unscrew the spout and hose;
• disconnect the adapter from the switch using an open-end wrench;
• remove the cap of the product;
• remove the screw
• unscrew the button;
• pull out the rod along with the spring;
• replace the broken spring;
• assemble the switch.

If you hear turbulent noises when you open the faucet, the cause is the wear of the rubber gasket. You need to unscrew the head and cut off the worn edge from the gasket.

If water flows continuously from the tap, the reason may be that the brass valve has become unusable or foreign small particles have clogged the gap between the valve and the gasket. It is necessary to replace the valve or clean the contamination inside the mixer.

If no water comes out when you open the tap, the reason may be that the rubber gasket has dried out. First, you can try a simple method - open the tap and hit it with a wooden object. Otherwise, it is necessary to shut off the access to water, remove the valve head and slightly tug or turn over the gasket itself.

If it is not possible to open the valve by turning it, then the reason is that the thread of the rod has become unusable. It is necessary to replace the rod or wind the wire if the thread is not completely worn out.

Kitchen faucets

In terms of design, the types of kitchen faucets are similar to those designed for bathroom sinks. But they have one feature. Products installed in the kitchen sink must be of sufficient height. Otherwise, you won’t be able to comfortably wash large pots or fill them with water. Sometimes kitchen products are also equipped with a dispenser and a separate tap for drinking water.

A long spout and a swivel design (allowing you to reach all corners of the sink) are the best option. The greater the turning angle of the spout, the more comfortable it is to use the device. Budget models have an angle of no more than 140 degrees, more expensive ones - 180 degrees. Sometimes the spout is made flexible or retractable for greater comfort.

Kitchen faucets

The classic version with two flywheels is not very difficult to repair - any mechanic can do it. However, if the housewife’s hands are covered in dough or oil, then the taps will inevitably be dirty - otherwise you won’t be able to open them. And a fair amount of water flows through such a mixer. In general, the pros and cons are the same as for the devices described in the previous section.

Switch

Button

There are the following types of this device:

Automatic type

– used in the design of the latest cartridge-type products. This device is located in the area of ​​the independent block or on the outer part of the swivel spout. The peculiarity of the element is that its position remains unchanged when the water is blocked. The button implements a control option: when it is removed, water will begin to flow out of the watering can.

Simple type

– used on cheap models of mixers. However, in appearance there are no differences from the automatic type switch. The difference between these devices is manifested in their operating features. To see this, you need to remove the button and turn off the water supply. In the case of its remainder in an immovable state, the device should be considered simple.

A push-button shower switch for a faucet can upset its owner in the following ways:

• Stopping turning off the water in extreme positions;
• Spontaneously switching from shower to gander with low water pressure.

The cause of the first malfunction in modern mixers is wear or destruction of the rubber valve. In this case, it needs to be replaced. Fortunately, in most new plumbing fixtures, the bath-shower switch for the faucet is made as a separate unit that is screwed directly into its body.

The cause of the second problem is that the return spring is too strong. You need to cut off one or two turns with side cutters.

Lever

How to repair a faucet if the lever switch stops working (it can be easily recognized by the handle moving 90-120 degrees)?

To access the switch you need:

1. Remove the plastic plug on the handle;
2. Remove the handle;
3. Unscrew the nut underneath;
4. Pull the rod with the eccentric towards you;
5. Remove the gooseneck and nut under the shower hose;
6. Remove the barrel with gaskets.

The most common malfunction that prevents the switch from operating is the destruction of one or both gaskets on the barrel. They are replaced with new ones.

If the handle moves freely, but the water does not switch, the cause may be a broken eccentric lug that drives the gasket barrel. In this case, the switch changes entirely. The repair kit consists of an eccentric and a barrel.

What does it look like to repair a shower switch in a faucet if the handle periodically gets stuck in intermediate positions?

Alas, no way. The reason is the wear of the guides on the mixer body. The device is completely changed.

Ball

Alas, I cannot tell the dear reader absolutely nothing about its repair. The fact is that in my memory not a single switch of this type has broken yet. From here, by the way, comes a rather obvious instruction: if you are just going to buy a faucet for the bathroom, you should prefer a model with a ball switch. It is easily recognized by the handle, which turns a full turn.

Only faucets with faucets - ceramic and (less often) screw ones - are equipped with ball switches. Interestingly, the price of these extremely reliable appliances is on average lower than that of frequently broken faucets with push-button and lever switches.

The photo shows a mixer with a ball switch.

Water tap installation

1) Water tap with one valve. They are distinguished by the simplicity of their design and have the quality of reliability during operation. These devices can be used in cold and hot water taps.

The bodies of such taps are made of brass or copper. The water retention mechanism has the form of a ceramic or worm-type axle-box faucet.

In worm-type devices, the basic rule of reciprocating movement is applied. The main and most common breakdown of such taps is the failure of the rubber gasket, which can easily be replaced.

A ceramic water faucet consists of plates. One of them is rigidly fixed, and the other rotates under the action of the valve. The taps have the property of long-term performance and, thanks to the high resistance of ceramics to abrasion. In addition, these devices are more expensive than worm-type devices. The spout is often cast as one block with the body.

Devices with one valve allow you to control only one type of water supply, either hot or cold.

2) Two-valve devices. For these mixers, axle-box taps are used, controlled by two valves. Each type of water passes through separate retention mechanisms.

Repairing these devices sometimes also involves replacing the gasket, but in some cases it is necessary to replace the crane axle box.

These types of faucets are quite commonly used in kitchens and bathroom vanities. To use them directly in the bathroom, another hole is required to connect the shower hose. The entire structure of the device is complemented by another switch to regulate water flows.

3) Single lever devices. They are easy to use and are a type of ball mixer. The main element in the structure of this mixer is the cartridge, which can perform movements in all directions. To control it, a lever is used to regulate the volume of water supply, as well as its temperature. The cartridge has three holes, two of which receive hot and cold water, and the third hole allows water to flow to the spout in a mixed form and at the desired temperature.

The device body has a metal thickness of more than 2 mm and can be repaired at home. It consists of replacing a damaged cartridge by disassembling the device itself. In this case, you should pay attention to the fact that cartridge models are different, so when purchasing a new version, you need to compare it with the used device. Also, when removing a cartridge, you must remember its location in the case in order to subsequently correctly install the new device.

4) Devices with a thermostat. The development of innovative technologies allows us to improve the use of mixers for convenience and simplicity. Recently, devices with thermostats have become popular models. A significant difference from standard mixers is the presence of a thermal element in it, which performs the function of regulating water flows when bringing it to the required temperature. A special handle is installed in the outer part, allowing you to set the desired water temperature. Its flow to the spout is regulated by a separate lever. These devices are quite convenient to use when only the water supply pressure is regulated, while its temperature is set in advance.

5) Touch devices. This type of tap has found its application in sanitary facilities of large organizations. The mixer is equipped with a special photocell that turns on the water supply when you bring your hands to the tap, and stops supplying it after removing your hands from the tap. The device is cost-effective and meets all hygienic standards. The water temperature and its pressure are regulated by a special installed rod located on the mixer body. There are models in which the temperature is set using a remote control that provides control of water heating, as well as using a temperature sensor located in the body structure of the faucet. In this case, the device is equipped with an electronic controlled unit.

Touch devices are most often used in organizations with a large number of visitors.

It is difficult to imagine a modern home without this unchanged, but almost invisible device. With the advent of centralized water supply, there was a need for shut-off valves, a prominent example of which is the ordinary water tap. How this device works, its varieties and main selection criteria, types of water taps - all information is given in this article.

All the variety of configurations and colors cannot be described even in the most detailed article, while the internal structure of all existing water taps can be divided into four main types.

Single valve

The simple and reliable design of such a mechanism has been time-tested and is still used to supply water. The operating principle of such a faucet is based on the reciprocating movement of the valve, which presses the rubber gasket inside the body to a special “seat”. These models can regulate the water supply, but not its temperature, since they are installed on only one pipe.

A more advanced model has a ceramic tap inside - an axle box, in which there are two plates with holes. When the tap lever rotates, one of the plates rotates and when the holes match, water flows. Valves with ceramic “filling” are more reliable and less likely to break, but their cost is slightly higher than older models with a worm valve.

Double valve mixer

For the convenience of using hot water, it is more advisable to use special taps - mixers. The name itself already indicates that this device can mix two flows, so most often you can find just such universal taps.

The structure of a two-valve water tap is practically no different from the previous design, only in this case the water comes out from one tap, to which two locking mechanisms are connected. The flow pressure and temperature are adjusted manually. Such taps are still in demand, successfully competing with more modern models of single-lever mixers. The principle of operation of such a mixer will allow it to be used in the bathroom. In this case, you need to choose models with flow switching to the shower hose.

In the video - repair of water taps:

Single lever ball mixer

Such devices appeared relatively recently, but have already become incredibly popular. The design of such taps is an internal spherical cartridge with three holes. Two are intended for the flow of hot and cold water, through the third the mixed flow flows out.

The pressure and temperature are adjusted manually, but unlike valve taps, it does not require much time: just turn the lever to the right or left, and to increase the water flow rate, lift the handle up more.

The ease of use of such models guarantees their stable popularity. This has also given rise to another phenomenon - a large number of counterfeit products, so when purchasing, you should carefully study all the details of the mechanism. Low-quality material is usually lighter, the thickness of the metal is minimal, and there are minor defects in the coating and joints of parts. If there are any doubts about the quality of the product, such a purchase should be canceled.

Faucets with thermostat

Progress has even embraced such a universal device as water taps, so improved models of lever mixers have appeared with a special function - adjusting the water temperature.

There is a special thermocouple in the body of the device that automatically regulates the supply of hot and cold water so that the output flows at a given temperature.

The thermocouple is programmed externally using a special lever, as is the water speed. Such faucets will cost much more than a standard mixer; purchasing them is also problematic, because this innovation is still practically unknown to buyers. It is advisable to install such devices in children's and medical institutions, as well as for home use.

Touchless (touch) faucets

A similar innovation occurred with the advent of photocells, which can react and signal the approach of an object. In this case, when your hands approach the spout of the faucet, the indicator lights up and water flows. If you remove your hands, the flow will shut off automatically. This is very convenient in public places, because less water is wasted and there is no chance that a “flood” will occur due to the negligence of one of the visitors.

This is also very good from a hygiene point of view, because people do not touch the tap directly. Most often, such mixers are installed in large companies, as well as restaurants and crowded places. The cost of such devices is quite high, and the temperature regime is programmed separately. This means that water is supplied at the same pressure and temperature.

Problems and solutions

Now let's take a more detailed look at the typical breakdowns of each mechanism and how they can be fixed with your own hands at home.

Suberic

As we remember, there are two typical problems:

1. High switching force
   . The cause is most often an overtightened union nut that secures the plug in. It is enough to just loosen it slightly; In addition, a layer of silicone plumbing grease can be applied to the outer surface of the plug removed from the body.

1. Leak along the stem
   . The reason has already been mentioned: uneven wear of rubbing surfaces. A layer of silicone grease will again help correct the situation: it will not only reduce the force required to turn the lever, but will also fill all the microscopic grooves and scratches between the metal parts.

Button

The push-button shower switch also has a few common problems.

1. The valve does not hold water
   . As a rule, the reason is excessively hard water: lime deposits over time cause the valve rubber to lose elasticity and form uneven growths on it and the seat. For a short time, careful cleaning of the valve itself and the seat with Beliz, Domestos or any other lime-removing agent will help; if the rubber has become frankly hard, the valve and rod are completely changed.
2. Leak along the stem.

How to repair the push-button shower switch in the faucet in this case depends on the type of stem seal:

The rubber ring will have to be replaced. A new seal is easy to find as part of a set of gaskets in any plumbing store.

It is enough to refill the stuffing box by tightening the stuffing box with moderate force.

1. The button spontaneously returns to its original position with a small amount of water pressure.
   The problem is related to an excessively tight return spring. It is enough to bite off one or two turns of it - and everything will return to normal.

1. The button does not return to its original position when the water is turned off
   . The reason is that the stem seal is too tight. It is enough to apply a little silicone grease under the rubber ring; in a design with a gland packing, you need to loosen the nut - the gland.

With a keg

1. The faucet does not switch to shower when turning the lever.

The reason may be:

• An eccentric protrusion broken off by excessive force. The symptom is a free rotation of the lever without any visible effect. It can only be treated by replacing the eccentric.
• Lost elasticity or torn gasket on the barrel. A sign of a malfunction is normal lever movement with moderate force; The water is only partially switched. Replacing the gasket and, sometimes, the screw securing it will help.
• Wear of the barrel or guides in the mixer body: the barrel becomes askew and gets stuck in an intermediate position. Symptom: limited lever travel. It is treated by replacing the barrel or, more often, completely replacing the mixer if the guides of its body are worn out.

1. In the event of a leak along the rod, the instructions are the same as for a push-button switch: replace the rubber seal or refill the seal.

Ball

As mentioned above, a ceramic shower or bathtub switch almost never fails due to normal wear and tear. The cause of a breakdown can only be an attempt to turn the lever when the plates are jammed with scale or sand.

If a breakdown does occur, the switch cartridge is completely replaced. The price of this product does not exceed 200 rubles; To replace it, just remove the switch lever and unscrew the nut under it.

The photo shows the switch cartridge.

Watering can

Since we have already touched upon the repair of a bathroom faucet, it would be logical to mention another problem - a malfunction of the shower head, in which water flows from only part of the holes in it.

The reason is sand and lime deposits that clog the holes. It is enough to disassemble the watering can and shake out the sand or wash the holes with the same Belize or Silit (an acidic detergent).

The only problem with this simple repair is disassembling the watering can in the case where there are no fasteners within sight.

Two little tricks can help here:

1. Often the mounting screw can be found under a plastic plug in the middle of the mesh.

1. Sometimes it is possible to disassemble the watering can by fixing the shower-shower switch on it with your hand and turning the mesh counterclockwise.

Faucets with sensor

These products are also called contactless. They do not need to be turned on manually, as they are equipped with an infrared-type motion sensor. As soon as you put your hands to the tap, water starts pouring out of it. The sensor coverage area can be adjusted. The temperature is adjusted using a small lever.

+ Pros:

• Hygienic - no direct contact of the surface with dirty hands. This is convenient for public bathrooms.
• Easy to use - no effort required.

- Minuses:

List of nodes

What can break in the mixer?

Crane box (screw or ceramic). It stops turning off the water. Another malfunction is observed less frequently: the tap opens, but no water flows;

• Switch for shower. It can be push-button, lever or ball-type;
• Gaskets under the spout often leak, as well as between the mixer body and the eccentrics;
• Absence or weak water pressure may mean the filter on the gander is clogged;

• The cause of a shower hose leak is a rupture of its rubber core inside the armor;
• Poor pressure of hot and cold water when supplied to the shower is a consequence of clogged nozzles of the shower head.

Mixer thermostats

Equipped with two handles with safety locks, they allow you to quickly vary the temperature (regulated by the first valve) and pressure (regulated by the second valve). Limit buttons on the handles make it possible to set the parameters that are needed. The next time we turn on the tap, we will get water with the desired temperature and pressure.

+ Pros:

• Saves water, makes adjustments as fast as possible.
• Possibility to set the desired parameters. This is convenient, for example, when bathing a child.
• Modern elegant design.

- Minuses: